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- CLOC-AdminHi. I have a Thetford 42054 two piece toilet. A plumber mistakenly reversed hot/cold to my toilet and a couple sinks, while doing some other unrelated work for me. The hot water dislodged some hard water deposits, which the plumber cleaned out of the sink valves easily enough. The toilet is another matter. In addition to generalized low pressure, it now won’t stop running. It got increasingly worse in the last two weeks and now runs 100% of the time. I’m evaluating two options:
1) disassemble and blow out the existing toilet and/or replace a few parts to get it working again. The water model/valve may or may not work if water is run through in reverse to clean it out.
2) buy another toilet and replace the thetford.I’ve seen a few comments on forums that this 42054 may be defective. Given that flooding my trailer could do many, many thousands of dollars damage, I wonder if option 2 is best. If yes, then what toilet would anyone recommend that is a good quality, china bowel residential style pot?
Posted: 11:36 AM – May 13, 2016I have the same toilet. Unlike others, I have had no major problems with my Thetford. After 6 years, I recently replaced the ball, seals and water valve. It is now working better than new.Is it your water valve or is the foot pedal not fully returning to the up position. If you lift up on the pedal, does the water shut off? My ball valve and seal were well worn, after 6 years, and making the foot pedal return to closed very sluggish.
The water valve is easily replaced. Pop off the foot pedal with a forceful rap outwards, and you can easily see and move the water valve.
Posted: 12:59 PM – May 13, 2016Hi retiredfields….Does the ball, seals and water valve come as a kit or do you have to get the parts separately? If there is a kit do you have the kit part number?….Thanks, RichPosted: 2:22 PM – May 13, 2016Posted: 2:45 PM – May 13, 2016retiredfields wrote:I have the same toilet. Unlike others, I have had no major problems with my Thetford. After 6 years, I recently replaced the ball, seals and water valve. It is now working better than new.Is it your water valve or is the foot pedal not fully returning to the up position. If you lift up on the pedal, does the water shut off? My ball valve and seal were well worn, after 6 years, and making the foot pedal return to closed very sluggish.
The water valve is easily replaced. Pop off the foot pedal with a forceful rap outwards, and you can easily see and move the water valve.
Is it your water valve or is the foot pedal not fully returning to the up position. If you lift up on the pedal, does the water shut off?
I replaced the lower piece because the pedal broke, so it’s 1.5 years old. Answer is no, so it’s not the pedal.The plumber showed me some calcium rocks he got out of the sink valve. I suspect some of this has fouled the toilet.
I’m going to look into the parts you called out and see if this makes sense. Having seen comments on another forum that this toilet is defective by design, I’m concerned about rebuilding it.
Posted: 2:48 PM – May 13, 2016Attached is a PDF of the detailed installation for the kit # 42049. Make sure you clean out the inlet opening real good and replace the inlet seal and coat it with some good silicone grease. It’s rubber and gets fouled up over time. I had to do this to my toilet a couple times until I just replaced it with a sea-land. The Thetford almost overflowed twice. Here is a pic of the seal.Chip
Posted: 3:06 PM – May 13, 2016falconhunter wrote:Attached is a PDF of the detailed installation for the kit # 42049. Make sure you clean out the inlet opening real good and replace the inlet seal and coat it with some good silicone grease. It’s rubber and gets fouled up over time. I had to do this to my toilet a couple times until I just replaced it with a sea-land. The Thetford almost overflowed twice. Here is a pic of the seal.Chip
Hi Chip, Thanks so much for your time and interest. I just read your 2013 comments here: http://www.carriage-lifestyle-owners.co … ?hilit=CLR
You posted above before I could get back to this thread. I’m going with Dometic to mitigate this flooding risk. I’m going to take the design defective Thetford to my property here north of Tampa FL and blow that piece of junk into many smaller pieces of junk with my Mossberg 500 and some buck shot! I just installed a bunch of solar equipment between my stairs and the basement partition wall (under my bathroom), so a flood down into that area would be expensive.
Thanks again. Given your frustration I gathered from your comments in the other tread with the Thetford, I’ll take a few extra shots for you. I’ve also got a big sledge hammer and I’m a good kitchen and bath man!
Posted: 3:14 PM – May 13, 2016Funny, I was just going to post a link to that thread. The footprint for the Dometic is the same and I would install a shutoff valve as well so you don’t have to shut all the water off to service the toilet. Good luck!
Be careful and don’t shoot your eye out LOL…….
ChipPosted: 3:18 PM – May 13, 2016A couple pics of the dometic and the valve.
Posted: 3:39 PM – May 13, 2016falconhunter wrote:Funny, I was just going to post a link to that thread. The footprint for the Dometic is the same and I would install a shutoff valve as well so you don’t have to shut all the water off to service the toilet. Good luck!
Be careful and don’t shoot your eye out LOL…….
ChipThanks. The Dometic is quite a can!
Posted: 4:50 PM – May 13, 2016I’m already having this problem with my brand new style ii. How did you add the shut off valve?Posted: 5:25 PM – May 13, 2016Many thanks retiredfields…..RichPosted: 2:32 PM – Jun 19, 2016Not sure if you still have this issue, but I had a similar problem with the style ii running, but it was due to a pressure problem elsewhere in my fresh water system, not the toilet valve. When I fixed the other water problem, the toilet stopped running. So these valves are sensitive to system pressure. In my case it looked like a valve problem but was air in the system.Posted: 2:58 PM – Jun 19, 2016FaithBowls wrote:Not sure if you still have this issue, but I had a similar problem with the style ii running, but it was due to a pressure problem elsewhere in my fresh water system, not the toilet valve. When I fixed the other water problem, the toilet stopped running. So these valves are sensitive to system pressure. In my case it looked like a valve problem but was air in the system.Someone doing some other work hooked the toilet up to hot water and evidently, this dislodged a lot of particulate in the water lines that clogged up the toilet’s mechanism. After flushing my entire system (except the water heater) with CLR, the problem appears to have corrected. I’m too busy not to replace the existing toilet, but will down the road. I suspect it’s a ticking time bomb. I watch it every time I use it to make sure it shuts off; don’t trust it and never will.
Posted: 11:06 PM – Jun 23, 2016My toilet overflowed a couple of times. Finally figured it out. Throw my pressure saver away. These pipes are made to hold 150lbs pressure and I haven’t had an issue since. What I think happened was whenever we hooked up to water if it was low pressure the regulator made it lower and if not paying attention when flushing the valve would leak just a little. I’m changing to an Aqua Magic V style ll with a center foot valve. After reading this post I think it warrants a shutoff valve, but still think it’s the pressure.B.W.Gentry
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