FWS Relay install + troubleshooting

I got tired of the intermittent nature of my FWS so it was time to install the relay I purchased 11 months ago (Tarp and winch reversing solenoid from amazon)

Measured the voltage at the battery (13.39v) and then at the motor (4.21v). WOW.. no wonder it is slow.

Noticed the 2 black wires off the brake, and one was a red wire under paint. Measured the polarity when the slide was going in and the positive, red, (ON MY COACH, 2009 Carri-Lite36MAX1) is in and the black is out. Pl;us there were 2 spade connections wrapped up in tape, and the wire is small, looks like around #18.

Took about 2.5 ft of #8 fine stranded wire and soldered ring terminals on the black and ran from the center front of the solenoid, to the lower 9/16 (probably 3/8 bolt size) holding the slide chain drive mechanism to the frame.

Soldered a ring terminal on the red wire, stripped off the insulation on the wire from the 15amp circuit breaker going up into the bathroom chase, and soldered it to the other end.

Crimped the red and black wires from the motor brake to the large outer lugs on the solenoid.

TESTED the in and out with little momentary connections while my wife held in the slide switches above. Scared me how fast the slide moves.

Ran the red actuator wire to the spade terminal on the side with the red motor wire, and the black actuator wire to the black wire side of the solenoid.

Was late so went upstairs and move the slide in and out.. SCARY for I know my limit switch is just rattling around and not connected to anything.

The power of the chain reduction drive could push the coach wall right in and or out of the frame.

Ran out of time and will replace the 1 old push spade connector and tidy up the wiring the assure vibration will not pull or shake anything loose next weekend, but hanging wire pics are easier to follow anyway.

Most important is to properly mount the limit switch under the garbage can area, and then to adjust the rollers.

I’m relieved for the lower part of the FWS is the same on the bottom of both ends as far as, when all the way out, the bottom touches both front and rear, pretty much equally. The top is WAY off. Dug into the wall in the bedroom and and inch out from the wall in the entertainment TV area. I think I have some small rectangle plates to make in my future.

 

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[ramseyjackParticipantParticipant Topics - 30Replies - 145Total - 175]

spade lugs under tape and black painted red wires on brake

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[ramseyjackParticipantParticipant Topics - 30Replies - 145Total - 175]

soldered wire from 15amp circuit breaker in Fuse panel

closeup of relay, wired

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[ramseyjackParticipantParticipant Topics - 30Replies - 145Total - 175]

pulled back shot of relay in 2×4 under the stairs

I have NO idea how the button the the far left is supposed to work. it does NOT kick the brake off at all from my observation unless the motor is energized.

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[ramseyjackParticipantParticipant Topics - 30Replies - 145Total - 175]

BTW. Taking the brake off the motor is easy. Putting it back on is a BEAR, and I’m being polite to bears.

Not for the average person. How that FWS moved at 4v is mind-boggling to me.

Also all bolts on the chain gear assembly and motor were tight.

[dollarhideParticipant Topics - 0Replies - 38Total - 38]

We have a 2014 Lifestyle 36FW and had a problem with the slide running in and out.  The problem I found was the limit switches.  They are only rated for 1/2 amp DC so after being used for awhile they become resistive and stop passing the current the motor needs.  I solved the problem by adding two automotive type relays that are designed to pass 40 amps DC.  One relay is used to switch the current that runs the motor and the other is used reverse the voltage on the motor to switch between in and out.  I replaced the burnt limit switches and now they are only used to control the relays.  You can find pictures, wiring diagram, and instructions on my web page at http://www.radio-man.com/slide.html    I made a world if difference on our trailer.  Good luck!!

[ramseyjackParticipantParticipant Topics - 30Replies - 145Total - 175]

Thanks,

I love the diodes to short the reverse voltage. I would not have thought of that. What specific behavior caused you to install them? relay chatter?

I went out and took pics and will order new limit switches. I see where they contacted wood, the roller dug a groove in the soft surface. I will add small metal plates on both sides. (inner and outer) ingenious how both are in the same cutout.

[dollarhideParticipant Topics - 0Replies - 38Total - 38]

No reason other than just good practice.  I’ve been using relays for 40+ years and we always put the diode in.   The revers generated voltage can be quite high and damage the driving circuit, especially if it is solid state.  A lot of relays come with the diodes built in.

 

Billy

[Kevin DellParticipant Topics - 1Replies - 5Total - 6]

Hi, can you tell me how to locate the limit switches? any pictures would be appreciated.

Thanks,

 

Kevin

[dollarhideParticipant Topics - 0Replies - 38Total - 38]

I have a different year and model than you but:

The full wall switches are located under the kitchen counter behind the panel located on the left side next to where the trash can is.  The door side switches are located in the zippered panels on the bottom cover.

Billy

[JohnD222Participant Topics - 8Replies - 520Total - 528]

Kevin,

Jack Ramsey did a great write up about roller fix that shows the opened up garbage can and under sink area.  Look at Jack’s “PICS …” write up.

https://www.carriage-lifestyle-owners-club.com/forums/search/Pics/

I hope to paste the two relevant photos below.

Nope too big.

Look at photo in post.  66774

and the photo in post 66765 (this is closeup of the hole where switches are – a blowup of that area that can be seen in 66774)

It is much easier, faster, and better for inspection and working to simply remove all 3 doors from cabinet (leave hinge attached to doors).  Jack cut out carpet – you do not need to do that to access switches, just remove the flimsy wood walls within the cabinet that hold up garbage can etc.

John

 

JohnD222
Based in Florida except summer
2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)

[CLOC-AdminKeymaster]

Here’s a photo of the location with the doors removed and flimsy wood walls removed.  Sorry, I did not have a pic of the switches but you will see them once you get in there.

B.W.Gentry
Owner/Admin
2007 Carri-Lite XTRM5
Breckenridge, TX

[CLOC-AdminKeymaster]

Here’s a resized photo.

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B.W.Gentry
Owner/Admin
2007 Carri-Lite XTRM5
Breckenridge, TX

[JohnD222Participant Topics - 8Replies - 520Total - 528]

Keveo,

looks like you are laying plank flooring directly on top of the oem linoleum.  Also looks like the carpet is removed from the garbage can/under sink area.  Did you do something to raise the roller to offset the additional thickness of the planking, or just refasten down the plywood like Jack did?

If you did raise that roller, did you do the same to the on at the base of the stairs into the bedroom?

if you did not raise the height of the roller to offset the planking thickness, did you make any other adjustments to keep the outside wall aligned when wall is in or out?

JohnD222
Based in Florida except summer
2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)

[CLOC-AdminKeymaster]

JohnD222,

The kitchen area did not have linoleum, it was laminate flooring.  I removed the OEM laminate flooring that was 10mm thick(including vapor barrier) and replaced it with 10mm thick Pergo XP+ laminate flooring.  This way, I did not have adjust the roller height.   The OEM laminate flooring was starting to “bubble” in spots and was starting to look cheap.  What you are seeing is the plywood subfloor that the Pergo XP+ (with attached vapor barrier) is laid on.

Under the sink, the carpet is still there and was not removed.  There was no need to remove the carpet since I was not messing with the roller.  Before I put the new laminate down, I read everything I could find in the forums regarding flooring replacement.  So, after much reading, I thought it imperative to keep the floor height the same so as not to have to adjust the roller height and/or the outside full wall alignment.  Everything seems to be at the same alignment as it was before the flooring was replaced.

Here are a couple of pics of the finished flooring.

Kevin

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B.W.Gentry
Owner/Admin
2007 Carri-Lite XTRM5
Breckenridge, TX

[ramseyjackParticipantParticipant Topics - 30Replies - 145Total - 175]

FWS Limit Switch location

 

My 2009 Carri-Lite 36 Max1 had a few repairs done to it by previous owners so there was no garbage can holder when I purchased it.

Which makes the Kitchen FWS limit switch area pretty easy to photograph. There are 2 switches in my coach. 

The inside (passenger side) limit switch is for stopping the extension of the FWS.

The outer limit switch (drivers side) is for stopping the closing of the FWS

 

My switch assembly is still flopping around and I have new switches just in case, but will batten them down tomorrow and do some basic adjustments, just to keep the wall from caving in. GRIN

After the relay, my FWS moves in and out with the battery disconnected. Surprisingly it runs off the charger only. I think not a good idea to do this often, but FYI

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